Buying used
Used Arcade Machine Inspection Checklist: What to Check Before You Pay
Used arcade machines can be great value, or a heavy, expensive problem. Most bad buys could have been avoided with a methodical look before handing over money. Print this checklist, bring a flashlight, and work through it. A good seller won't mind.
This covers upright and bartop video cabinets, both commercial and home-market. For pinball, see our burn-in inspection steps for the screen and our pinball buying guides for the rest.
Before you go: questions to ask by message
- Is it working right now, and can I see it powered on from cold?
- Is it original hardware for the game, a conversion (a different game installed in a cabinet), or a multigame setup?
- Is the monitor original? CRT or LCD? Has it been repaired or replaced?
- What has been replaced or repaired: power supply, controls, boards, monitor?
- Has it been stored in a garage, basement or storage unit?
- Do keys for the coin door and back door come with it?
- Can I open the back to look inside (with you present)?
- Can you send a video of it running, including a close-up of the screen?
Vague or evasive answers are information too.
What to bring
Flashlight
For inside the cabinet and under the control panel.
Phone camera
Photograph labels, damage and the inside for later reference.
Tape measure
To confirm the dimensions match your doorways and space.
A friend
A second opinion, and help if you buy it on the spot.
Browse inspection flashlights on Amazon
Cabinet and exterior
- Bottom edges and feet: swelling, flaking, soft spots or water staining (often from damp floors)
- Side art: fading, peeling, scratches; note whether it looks original or reproduction
- T-molding: missing, chipped or loose sections (fixable, see our T-molding guide)
- Marquee and bezel: cracks, fading, missing pieces
- Coin door: intact, lock works, keys present
- Signs of pests: droppings, nesting material, chewed wiring
- Odours: musty smells suggest damp; burning smells suggest electrical issues
- Stability: does the cabinet sit level and solid?
Monitor and display
The monitor is often the most expensive part to fix, so take your time here.
- Burn-in: look at a plain or light-coloured screen for ghost images of scores, logos or interface elements (see our burn-in guide)
- Colour: whites should look white, not tinted; check for missing colours
- Geometry (CRTs): straight edges, picture centred and filling the screen properly, no wobble
- Focus and brightness: sharp, not washed out or too dark
- Stability: no rolling, flicker or picture collapsing after warm-up
- LCDs: dead pixels, backlight bleed, damaged panels or a mismatched aspect ratio
- Noises: buzzing, crackling or popping from the monitor area are reasons to walk away or get expert advice
CRT monitors can hold a dangerous electrical charge even when unplugged. Don't reach into the monitor area or touch the chassis. Look, don't touch, and let the owner handle anything inside.
Wondering whether a CRT or LCD cabinet is right for you? Our guide to CRT vs LCD trade-offs covers it.
Controls
- Test every joystick direction for every player, including diagonals
- Test every button, including start and coin buttons, and listen for consistent clicks
- Check whether the joystick is set to the right restrictor for the game (4-way vs 8-way)
- Trackballs, spinners and steering wheels: smooth, responsive, no grinding
- Look for sticky or worn buttons and loose joysticks (see our control panel cleaning guide)
- Check the control panel overlay for wear and the panel for cracks or extra drilled holes
Sound and lighting
- Sound works from all speakers, with no hum, crackle or distortion (see our speaker troubleshooting guide)
- Volume control works
- Marquee light works and doesn't flicker
- Any LED or button lighting works
Inside the cabinet (with the owner)
Ask the owner to open the back with the machine off and unplugged. Look, but don't touch.
- Burnt, browned or melted connectors and wires
- "Hacked" wiring: twisted wires, lots of electrical tape, mismatched wire colours
- Power supply: obviously replaced or original? Any burn marks?
- Game board: does it match what the seller described? Is it original, a reproduction or a multigame board?
- Dust buildup on fans and vents (see our cabinet fan guide)
- Rust on metal parts, which points to damp storage
- Missing parts, loose items, or anything rattling around
Running test: the 20-minute rule
Many faults only show up after a machine warms up. Ask to:
- Start from cold, and watch the startup sequence and any self-test screens.
- Play for at least 15 to 20 minutes if the seller allows.
- Watch for changes in picture, sound or controls as it warms up.
- Power off and on again to confirm it restarts reliably.
Multigame and "thousands of games" machines
Be careful with machines advertised as containing huge numbers of games. Many contain unlicensed software. They can be lower quality, hard to support, and they're not something we recommend. If you want a machine that plays many games, look at legally licensed platforms instead. Our multicade guide explains the legal options. If you use emulation, only use games you legally own.
Red flags: walk away if…
| Red flag | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Seller won't let you see it running | It may not work at all |
| Already "warmed up" before you arrive, and won't cold-start | Cold-start faults can be hidden |
| Won't let you look inside | May be hiding damage or hacks |
| Burning smells or electrical noises | Potential safety issue and expensive repair |
| Pressure to decide immediately | Classic sign of a bad deal |
| Payment only by untraceable methods for a shipped machine | Common scam pattern |
Browse replacement joystick and button kits on Amazon
See replacement T-molding on Amazon
Commercial vs home-market cabinets: what changes
The checklist above works for both, but the likely problems differ:
| Area | Commercial (ex-arcade) cabinet | Home-market cabinet |
|---|---|---|
| Cabinet | Years of route use: dents, worn side art, replaced T-molding, cigarette burns on the panel | Lighter build; check corners and joints for chipping and loose fasteners |
| Monitor | Often CRT; check burn-in, geometry and signs of past repair | Usually LCD; check dead pixels, backlight and any aftermarket screen swaps |
| Electronics | Original boards, power supplies and connectors that may have been reworked | Integrated board; check firmware can still be updated and any online features still work |
| Modifications | Conversions to other games are common | Riser additions, control upgrades and lighting mods are common |
| Parts | Many classic parts are still available from specialist suppliers | Depends on the manufacturer's support; check before buying |
After you buy: the first week
- Let it acclimatise to room temperature before powering on if it was moved through cold or damp conditions.
- Clean it inside and out: dust from vents and fans, grime from the control panel.
- Re-test everything from the checklist. Transit can loosen connectors.
- Write down what you've found, the serial number and any repairs needed. It helps with future service and resale.
- Plan the fixes in order of importance: safety first, then the screen and controls, then cosmetics.
Negotiating and buying
- Use your list of issues to negotiate politely. Fixable problems like T-molding or a sticky button are fair bargaining points.
- Get a written receipt listing what's included: keys, manuals, spare parts.
- Plan transport before you pay. See freight and stair access.
- Bring enough helpers and a dolly if you're taking it home the same day.
FAQ
What is the most expensive thing to go wrong on a used arcade machine?
Often the monitor, especially a CRT that needs repair or replacement, followed by the main game board. That's why the screen and board deserve the closest inspection.
Is a conversion cabinet bad?
Not necessarily. Many machines were converted to other games. It mainly matters for collectors wanting originality, and for value. Just make sure you know what you're buying.
Should I buy a used arcade machine without seeing it run?
It's risky. Unless you're buying a project at a project price, insist on seeing it run from cold, or at least on a detailed video.
How long should I test a used arcade machine?
Ideally at least 15 to 20 minutes from a cold start, so faults that appear as it warms up have a chance to show.
Are multigame boxes with thousands of games legal?
Many contain unlicensed games, which is why we don't recommend them. Look for legally licensed platforms, and if you use emulation, only use games you legally own.
The bottom line
A good used arcade machine is out there. You find it by being methodical: ask questions first, inspect the cabinet, monitor, controls and insides, run it from cold, and walk away from red flags. Bring this checklist, take your time, and don't let excitement override what you see.